When I knew I’d be going to Mwanza, Tanzania’s second largest city, I was expecting to find a heaving, industrial port town full of large ship traffic. Instead, this was the view we woke up to each morning on Lake Victoria, as fishermen brought their small boats back to shore after a night’s work. Granted, we were staying outside Mwanza’s busier commercial fishing areas, but the vibe of the city was still pretty relaxed. Downtown was a small cluster of well-preserved mid 20th century buildings built around the time Tanzania won its independence in 1961, and people’s homes were tucked into the green, rocky hills that surrounded the lake.